After 6 hours, we landed in Papette, Tahiti on Air Tahiti.  Aaron described the airline decor like “a tropical island vomited all over the place.”  Papette was the same airport we spent a dreaded couple layover hours on our way to Sydney at the start of our trip.  This time we actually got to leave!   We stayed that night at the swanky Tahiti Airport Motel.  Mostly because it was so late and the motel was across the street from the airport, flanked by little houses with chattering guard dogs.  The best part was that it had air conditioning.  The weather at night was quite muggy and the island seemed asleep.  Except for the airport, which sprang to life every few hours as a big air buss would unload hundreds of passengers from France, Sydney, or LAX.   And then everything would close up and go back to sleep again.

The following morning we waited on the street for the public bus.  Pubic transportation buses consisted of a cab with a flat bed truck upon which they build wooden seats, windows and a roof.  The bus cost 130 Francs (about $1.50) from the airport to the ferry terminal.  A taxi going the same 2km or so would have cost about $20.  Downtown Papette wasn’t the prettiest city I’ve ever seen.  Everything seemed old, dirty, and poor.   Good thing we took the recommendation of friends to spend most our time on Tahiti’s sister island, Maurea.

After a Ferry and taxi, we arrived at the Sofitel in Maurea.  This was our splurge night in a nice resort hotel.  We were ushered from reception to our private bungalow that opened onto the beach. Nice!

The beach was beautiful, with crystal clear, shallow waters guarded by a protective reef which surrounds the island.  The water was bath-water warm and lapped up onto the sandy shores shaded with palm trees.  This looked like every idyllic tropical resort picture you’ve seen.

I found myself letting go and entering complete relaxation with breaks to take a swim in the infinity pool, read, sleep, drink, eat.  After a night of luxurious sleep, we had a great breakfast and went snorkeling.  It was my first time snorkeling, and after I got over freaking out when a fish gave me a little nibble on the leg, i swam out and explored the reefs in the shallow waters.  It was amazing, seeing all the fish as if it was your own tropical aquarium.  I saw all the fish from “Finding Nemo”…which we had just watched on NZ’s Sky TV Movie Channel a week before…great channel btw.

The next afternoon reluctantly checked out of Sofitel after more naps on the beach and headed back to Papette via Ferry.  We had time to kill before our evening flight so we spent it hauling around our luggage downtown Papette and hanging out in dingy cafe’s.  We spent about 20 min trying to find the public bus stop to head to the airport…yes the wooden bus on the flat bed with plenty of diesel exhaust to keep our lungs fresh!  We finally found it by going to where the cartoon bus was drawn on the cartoon map of Papette.  We arrived at the slumbering airport with 3 hours  to kill, so we spent it eating overcooked airport buffet food, doing the check-in line serpentine, and lounging in vinyl cushioned chairs. We were both exhausted and cranky. Quite a polarized experience from the Sofitel.

After an 8 hour red-eye from Papette to LAX, a puddle jump to SFO, and 3 trains later I arrived safely at home. It’s weird being gone for so long.  Seeing the city made me smile, although everything also seems foreign.  Not sure what to do with myself now that I’ve left vacation-land and re-entered reality-land.

Trip Review:

Good Ideas:

• Going to Sydney..what a beautiful city with beautiful people
• The Routeburn Track, as long as we luck into amazing weather like we had.
• Queens Charlotte Sound: track and wine country
• Flying between some cities in NZ
• Sofitel Tahiti

Would do it differently the next time:

• Not trying to drive across the entire islands of NZ in just a few days
• Not spending NYE in Auckland
• Skip NZ North Island
• Avoiding like the plague the Scenic flight-of-death to Milford Sound
• The horrible 2 AM layover in Tahiti Airport
• Less time Kayaking Abel Tasman
• Would stay in one of the remote lodges in Queens Charlotte Sound

Indifferent On:

• Air Tahiti Nui
• Rotorua, NZ
• Maori Cultural Show
• Touristy beaches of Abel Tasman

We spent the day after our 3-day track for some much needed recovery; shopping, eating, and watching movies in the hotel room.  I bought some more merino wool t-shirt shirts…they are sooo comfortable and like poly, dry really fast.   Although unlike poly, are all-natural.  Aaron bought another orange stripped shirt like the 3 others that he already has.  We spent the afternoon by the hotel pool overlooking the lake of Queenstown and the Remarkables mountains.

The following day we booked a scenic flight with Real Journeys to and from Queenstown and Milford sound, sandwiched by a cruise of the sound.  We were both up for our 7am departure, only to have the flight cancelled due to weather.  The weather improved and we were able to reschedule to the 10am fight.

We boarded a twin propeller, 8-seater that was at minimum, very scary.  Although the scenery was specular, the flight was horrible; full of drops, shakes, and rolls.  We did get to pass over part of the track of routeburn that we had hiked a couple days before.  Although by the end, I was praying for the ground.  Aaron got to sit in the co-pilot seat and was gripping for his life as the pilot struggled to control the plane in the wind.

After we landed I was looking pretty pale and not looking forward to the subsequent shuttle bus and boat trips. I just wanted no movement, sound, or light. Although I made it to the boat, I spent most of the cruise sleeping in the lower level away from all the chattering tourists above.  Aaron took my camera and turned into quite the photographer; jumping around the boat taking photos.  He worked on framing shots with foreground, midground, and background. Thought about subject, polarization, depth of field, etc.  I liked having him take the camera duties for a while.

As the boat ride finished, I was feeling better, but was dreading the return scenic flight home. The weather had worsened and the 20 min roller coaster ride back to Queenstown seemed like an eternity.  I hear the scenery was beautiful, but I kept my eyes closed most of the time trying to minimize my bodies reaction to the drops, shakes, rolls, and dives.  I got off the plane and tried not to fall apart.  I wasn’t able to get in the cab to take us back to our hotel right away so Aaron went to talk to the lady to arrange a later cab.  He ended up getting into an argument with her and  pulled out his “lawyer card” threatening a lawsuit when she tossed back attitude about flying in such weather and not disclosing the expected turbulenceness of the flight.  She responded, “What do you want me to do about it, I just work here.”   Needless to say we were pretty over Real Journeys.

Aaron took care of me the rest of the day as I spent most of the remaining time in Queenstown recovering from the small flight trauma.  Aaron said he knew I was in bad shape when I turned down french fries he ordered back at the hotel

That same evening I was not looking forward to boarding yet another plane to fly from Queenstown to Christchurch.  Yes, our 3rd flight for the day.  Aaron checked on the plane and we were both relieved that it didn’t have any propellers.

We said good bye to our rental car and walked through to the gate.  We were both a little concerned when no one checked our ID at any time during the check-in, security, and boarding process.  Aaron joked that his name could have been “Ajib AlBomberMan” and they wouldn’t have cared.

As the plane was taking off and hit a few small bumps, I will admit that pangs of fear from the earlier flight trauma raced through my body. But I soon calmed down as we leveled off and landed shortly after.

We spent the evening walking around charming Christchurch and having a great dinner in a little rustic restaurant in the middle of the tudor gothic buildings of the art centre.  Aaron and I both had an remarkable meal totaling $73NZ which was only about $20US each.  We going to miss the exchange rate.

Today we are flying from Christchurch to Aukland and then from Aukland to Tahitti.  5 flights in 2 days… whoo hoo!

Day 1

Sunday we did our orientation for the Routeburn track.  Aaron opted for the guided group tour with luxury lodge accommodations, guides, and catered food along the way.  So we arrived the afternoon before to get our pre-breifing and we were the only ones there.  Not sure why until the next day when we were heading to meet the bus at 7am.  Aaron jokingly predicted, “Watch, it will be us and a big group of Japanese tourists.”  As we rounded the corner to the bus, there was 15 others of our group, all Japanese tourists

The group is a little surreal as there is Aaron, myself, a lady from the UK, and all the rest from a Japan.  They have their own guide to translate, and one of the guides with the hike also speaks Japanese…so everything spoken is done in both English and Japanese.

After morning tea, and a 3 hour bus ride, we started the hike.  The guides are actually pretty cool and we’ve developed our own little english speaking group.

The hike was of course beautiful and breathtaking views of Fiordland as we hike up switchbacks, trudging over at least 50 waterfall streams cascading over the trail.  I’m glad I have my hiking boots and a couple poles.

The highlights on day one were the Fox Summit where we had 360 degree vies of the valleys, lakes and mountains.  Truly amazing!

After lunch we took another break at Eden falls, a 150m tall falls snaking down the cliff face right above you and pausing at a pool along the train before continuing down the into the valley.

15km later, we ended at the deluxe Lake MacKenzie lodge.  A brand new accommodation with our own room, hot showers, clothes wash, full commercial kitchen where they prepared and served our 3-course meal  This is really roughing it!

Day 2

After a huge breakfast, we headed out at 9:30 past Lake MacKenzie and climbed 500m to the Harris Saddle. The Japanese were like machines.  Always first to leave and first to arrive.  Most of them were in their 50’s and 60’s and totally kicked our asses in hiking.

The trail followed along the steep Hillford face for about 10km.  The views of the Darren Mountains were as always spectacular.  The weather was clear, sunny and about 70 degree F.  The guides said a track with weather like this the entire 3 days is extremely rare.

We stopped at Harris Saddle for lunch and I climbed Connical Hill up to 1515m to get 360 degree views of Fiordland.  This climb was a little treacherous and steep, but I was a little amped up from the day, lunch, and the fact that this was my birthday.

After heading back down Connical Hill, we rounded Lake Harris with views of into a long waterfall expanding into a magical valley.  It make me think of something our of the Elven Village in Lord of the Rings.

I took my time heading down from Lake Harris to Routeburn Falls where we arrived at our lodge for the night. The lodge overlooks Routeburn Flats with mountains folding off into the distance.  Behind us, the falls split and tumble downwards.

Aaron arrived at the lodge early and asked the lodgies/guides if they had any candles for my dessert since it was my birthday.  “Candles?” they said in disgust, “We’ll just make him a cake.”  Which they did from scratch!  I had 15 Japanese tourist super excited to be singing happy birthday to me after dinner as they delivered a cake with candles.  What a great birthday!

Day 3

Aaron and I were of course to last to arrive for departure at 9:30am.  The Japanese had already been up since 6, did a sunrise hike and were ready to go for the past half and hour.  We headed down the falls into the flats where we followed along the meadows and the river, with mountains on either side and off into the distance.

We stopped at the river for a swim and lunch.  Well Aaron took a swim in the frigid water and switch current. I stayed dry and warm on the shore.

We finished the track at about 2pm and headed back to Queenstown.  We finished the experience with a group photo and dinner.  The Japanese tourists, guides, and everything about the track was great.  We couldn’t have asked for a better experience.

It seems that we create bad weather whenever we have a driving day. We headed down the west coast from Greymouth through cloudy skies and pouring rain.  Although the costal drive was rumored to be scenic, the weather made it pretty unexciting.  We passed the glaciers in a fog and didn’t even bother stopping because we knew they would not be visible through all the haze.

We continued on south to our destination for the night, Haast; a unesco world heritage site for it’s wetland, beach, and aviary conservation areas.  Of course as soon as we arrived, the rain stopped and the skies cleared.  There isn’t much around here besides a few motels, gas station, and a bar festooned with antlers.  Even the few in-room television channels were supplemented by the “local movie channel” which involved a dvd player behind the front desk playing “Finding Nemo” on a loop. Although it was nice having a break from the tourist towns for some much needed down time.

Today we jumped in the car head from Haast to Queenstown. The drive through Haast pass was, in normal New Zealand fashion, gorgeous.  The weather was perfect with sunshine and rolling clouds passing by the snow capped mountains framing the rivers and lakes.  Waterfalls from all the recent rainfall dotting the hills and cascading into streams passing under the many one-lane bridges.  As you approach each one-lane bridge, you have to check for traffic from the other direction before crossing, sometimes pulling off onto one of the passing bays in the middle of the bridge to let cars from the other direction pass.

Queenstown is a charming resort town on the middle of Lake Wakatipu. Filled with adventure bookings for rafting, bungy jumping (it all started here,) and sky diving.  I don’t think Aaron and I will be doing any of the previous.  But we do head out tomorrow for our 3-day, 40km Routeburn track hike.  I’ll be celebrating my 33rd birthday at 1600m at the top of Harris Saddle.  See you in 3 days.

We met our Kayak guide Jenna this morning and the other 6 people heading out for a 2 day Kayak track with us.  After loading all of our gear into the Kayaks we jumped on a boat pulled by a tractor and headed down the road to tidal sand bar where they then launch the boats. It was quite a site with all these farm tractors driving around in 3ft deep water towing boat trailers and boats out deep enough where they could launch.  On low tide, you’d have to drive out a couple hundred yards before reaching water deep enough and reverse on high tide.

We were taxi’d up to Totaranui where we launched our kayaks, fully loaded with the next two days supplies.  The first thing we came upon was a seal playing in the bay, followed by birds, blue penguins.  The weather was perfect: sunny, warm, blue skies. The water was crystal clear teal, and warm.

We arrive at Onetahuti, our beach campground late in the afternoon and setup camp. The scenery was of course breath taking and I was excited to be able to spend the evening at such a great location.

We even had a visitor from George, a local wild dolphin that came into the shallow water to swim with everyone.  George would make loops coming less than a meter from people in the water.  Always friendly, Aaron even though he heard him whistle his name

We ate well and then fell asleep to the crashing waves.  In the morning after breakfast on the beach and headed back out in the Kayaks.  Our group consisted of a couple from the UK, a Couple from Scotland, another guy from Scotland, and a boy from Germany.  We paddled out around an island full of seals and their seal pups sunning on the rocks before heading down to Anchorage where we stopped for the day.  We finished our trip with some time on the beach and a hike to the next cove and back before being picked up and taken back via water taxi.

Aaron and I jumped in the car and booked our way that evening from Abel Tasman to Greymouth, a city on the coast.  The drive, although rushed, was in true NZ fashion, beautiful as we passed rivers, charming farms with cows and sheep backdropped by mountains.  We arrived late in Greymouth and got some much need sleep.

We left Picton and headed westward along Queen Charlotte Drive to Nelson.  The winding drive along the coast was again monotonous in its amazing beauty.  Every bend opening onto wonderful views of the sound, hills, mountains, trees, etc.  It just sucked!

We arrived in Nelson, which was a charming town along the coast and booked our hotel for the night.  Elianse tourist lodge, a 4 room motel for $90NZ/night, was the only thing available close to our kayak departure tomorrow.  We were expecting the motel to suck for only $50US/night although were pleasantly surprised when Anne and Earl greeted us and pointed the way down to room four.  When Aaron asked for the keys, Anne said, “Oh, the door is open and the keys are inside.” :)  The room ended up being nice with all the comforts of home.  We decided to head to the beach for the afternoon.

The Kiateratera beach came highly recommended as the “premiere” resort beach in NZ, although when we arrived, the sky had clouded over and the beach was disappointingly boring and non-scenic.  Compared to Queen Charlotte sound, this scenery kind of sucked.  We hope for better visuals tomorrow and the next day kayaking Abel Tasman.

Last night, Aaron went to grab a snack at the local cafe.  When we asked what was in a certain pastry, the first girl said “I don’t know, maybe dates.”  She then asked the next girl who said, “It’s a magic bar.”  When Aaron asked the next girl what was in the magic bar, she responded “I don’t know, maybe dates.”  Obviously we are sure of one ingredient…magic!

We woke up early this morning and got on a water taxi headed for Ships Cove to hike some of the Queen Charlotte Track.  Ships Cove is where James Cook, the first European to visit NZ, landed his vessel in 1769 and also the start of the track.  The boat ride through Queen Charlotte sound was beautiful and was a great preview for the hike ahead.  When we were dropped off though the weather was a little cold and windy, although that soon changed as we hiked up through jungle forest filled with ferns, birds, and haunting insect sounds.  The track followed the edge of the sound passing through beautiful cove after beautiful cove.  Around ever corner was another magical vista of the crystal clear waters of the bay and mountains in the distance.

We reached a lookout point early on where the Weka birds,  without shyness, were scrambling among the hikers eating lunch picking up their crumbs.

As we continued, the beauty continued and we almost became desensitized…another magical view, more gorgeous ferns, etc.

We arrived 15km (9mi) later at the Ferneaux Lodge, a isolated resort lodge in the middle of the Endeavour Inlet.  We had a great lunch and beer on the deck of the restaurant before heading back via water taxi to Picton.  On the boat ride back, we passed through a pod of Orca whales swimming with their cubs in the middle of the day; a rare site…some would say “magical.”  Aaron of course screamed like a girl and almost pushed a few children overboard in his way to catch a glimpse of passing mammals.  He thought that his commands of “Jump, Jump!” would inspire some kind of free willy moment from the whales, but I think the reality of his skills in whale whispering are less than he imagines.

We jumped into the car this morning and headed out of Auckland.  The north island countryside wasn’t much more scenic that what we were used to in California.  We headed straight for Rotorua, the area full of sulfur hot springs.  We spent the day soaking in the geothermal waters, feeling their healing properties :)  We caught the mini Disney style orientation movie at the Rotorua museum, complete with hydraulic movie screen, fiber optic stars, and a shaking seating platform, to simulate the earthquake from the late 1800’s volcanic explosion

Aaron talked me into the Matai “Cultural Experience” which involved being bussed out like a tourist herd to a recreation of an ancient Maori village.  The “native”  warriors arriving in a canoe and joined their tribe where they performed dances, sang and did other various demonstrations.  We finished with an “authentic” dinner ate on folding tables and plastic chairs.  Although I was a little less keen, Aaron was sold on the tour when the tourism agent mentioned “canoe.”  It actually turned out to be not that bad, but I could have cut out the souvenir shopping time, watching the food being cooked on a grill, cheesy host, and boring Swedish tourists at our table.  The whole thing could have been boiled down the performers dressed in ancient Maori costumes with painted tattoos, dance, singing and demonstrating .  As Aaron said, “Human zoos are fun!”

We headed out of Rotorua the next morning with me driving on the left for the first time.  I think Aaron was a little scared when I may have broken a few traffic laws when I pulled a U-eh to get to the grocery store across the street but no one died, so that makes it legal in my book.

We stopped at the Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, a privately owned collection of sulfur hot springs. Although the colored mineral deposits and steam were pretty, the sulfur smell was sickening.  We joined the rest of the tourists for the 10:15 geyser presentation which involved a guide pouring caustic soda into a hole surrounded by an amphitheater and watching it erupt.

We high tailed it down to Wellington, an arduous 6 hour drive stopping at the Honey Bee Hive store for Aaron and the Haiku Falls for me.  The scenery along the drive got better as we went further south with more hills, mountains, and coast.  Coincidentally, some portions resembled the flat and rural cornfields of Indiana dotted with small towns.  We ran into the traffic as everyone else headed to Wellington through the small town speed traps along the main two-lane road.

Wellington is much prettier than Auckland, that’s for sure.  It’s a city tucked into the bay surrounded my mountains and ocean.  The city itself is contoured to the hills and has an eclectic charm similar to SF.  We walked down along the water and caught the 7:30 showing of “Australia” at the old Embassy Theatre, a restored movie palace in the center of town.  Aaron cried at the movie, but I thought it tried to be “Australia, the musical” with too many over the top, theatrical elements all pushed into 1 film.  My other title would be “How many helicopter camera flyby shots can we use in one film?”

This morning we took the scenic InterIslander Ferry from Wellington in the North Island to Picton in the South Island where we picked up our next rental car for the rest of the trip.  Aaron claimed that he screamed like a girl when he saw a pod of dolphins along side the ferry.  I was down below sleeping.

We spent the afternoon driving around the beautiful wine country, stopping for tasting and scenery.  We got some good recommendations from the NZ tourist center agent.  We’re not sure of her name, but Aaron and I decided to call her Debbie.  She was a larger woman who kept insisting we stop at the nearby chocolate factory.  Aaron privately inquired if there was a “celery and water factory,’ or “cigarettes and laxative factory” for Debbie instead

So it’s been a difficult transition out of amazing and beautiful Sydney to Auckland.  Aaron’s comment this morning was that “A thriving business to start here should be a noose shop.”  Although Auckland started to redeem itself as we settle into the smaller New Zealand lifestyle.  For those of you familiar with Indiana, New Zealand is kind of similar.  A capital city of 1 million in the middle of a larger 4 million population agricultural area.  Of course there is the difference of New Zealand’s beautiful nature and it being an island in the middle of the southern hemisphere.

After our Starbucks this morning, we took a ferry to Devonport, a small little “Sausalito” style town. The weather was amazing today, Sunny and 80 F.  We hiked to the top of Mt Victoria, which is really a 500m tall dormant volcano about 1/2 the size of twin peaks.  We enjoyed the views and weather before heading back home.  We did much needed laundry this afternoon and then had a great Indian dinner at a restaurant nearby.  We are getting used to not expecting quick service at restaurants in NZ.  The slow service seems to be part of the life style here.  Aaron and I finished our first glasses of wine and enjoyed good conversation before the first of the curries arrived.

Today we are off to Rotorua for some warm sulfur Hot Springs.

Our Monday was filled mostly with getting up late, getting breakfast and heading downtown for some shoe shopping (my ‘trainers’ were worn out and needed replacing.)  We swung my the Sydney Modern Art Museum where we saw a great exhibit but Yinka Shonibare.  The work featured Yinka, a Nigerian, posed in Victorian style photography with the Europeans as servants.  He mixed African fabric and prints with Victorian style costumes.  A great contrast to what we are used to seeing.

We spent the afternoon doing the sydney bridge climb.  It was a 3.5 hour ordeal, but pretty cool.  Complete with breathalizer, spiffy jump suit, harnesses, accessories, and training.  The climb itself was pretty easy as you are attached to safety cables the entire time.  The views were pretty cool, but not sure the entire experience was worth the price.

The next day (Tuesday) we walked through beautiful houses and parks along elizabeth, darlington, rose and Watsons bays.  The city is absolutely beautiful from these locations.  Although we never figured out which house was Russel Crow’s.  While walking through the swanky houses of Darlington Point, Aaron commented in true Aaronism form: “Even the servants are white, how much better can you get?”  He was just kidding btw.

We had fish and chips at beautiful Watson’s bay and then hiked up to the “Gap” which opens onto the amazing cliffs over the ocean.  After taking the Ferry back from Watson’s bay to Circular Quay (pronounced “Key”) Aaron and I went our separate ways.  He off to shop for aboriginal art, and me to explore.

I jumped on a random train heading West to see that part of Sydney.  It was fun exploring and leaving your destination to chance.  After a few stops, I got off at Newton, a more alternative/hipster area of Sydney and immediately loved the character.  It was a great contrast to the upscale homes in Darlington Point.  Newton was filled with run-down theatres, vintage clothing stores, and gritty cafe’s.  The buildings housing it all had so much character and history.  All the photos I kept taking were of the ornate tops of these against a beautiful cloud filled sky.  Check out the “Newton Building Top” B/W series on my Flickr.  I then saw a bus heading back to Circular Quay and got on it to see some different scenery on the way home.

Aaron and I finished our last night in Sydney at a great restaurant “Universal” in the heart of Darlinghurst.  We sampled great small plate dishes like snapper over squid ink noodles.  Aaron broke his sober streak with some great Spanish beer.  Who hoo, Aaron is back!

We sadly departed Sydney for Auckland today (Wednesday) via Qantas.  The flight was easy, and landed in Auckland within a couple hours…losing a couple hours timezone in the process.  We grabbed a car and started driving (on the left) into downtown Auckland.  We both realized “we weren’t in Sydney anymore.”  Auckland to Sydney is kind of like Sacramento to San Francisco, or Indianapolis to Chicago.  Much smaller, not as beautiful, and what you would expect for the “big city” in a rural area.

After walking around and dinner, we headed to “K” Rd, the main bar drag of Sydney where we just finished celebrating an anticlimactic New Years eve at Naval and Family bar and club.  The scene was pretty small with just a few clubs that everyone went to. So on the upside, the bars were pretty mixed.  The downside was that it was no Sydney.  No beauty, no charm, no ‘worlds best NYE firework show off the Sydney bridge :(  The good thing is that we were the first to Celebrate NYE before the rest of the world!

We are looking forward to the non-city sites of New Zealand starting tomorrow.

Woke up “early” on Saturday morning to an overcast day in Sydney so we decided to head to the Sydney Opera House for a tour. The Opera House itself is pretty amazing and beautiful. Designed in the 50’s, it took over 20 years to build. And although we got to learn about the history and see some of the amazing interior architecture, our tour guide was a tool. He kept on emphasizing “Ladies and Gentleman, this is the People’s Performing Arts Center” through a half working wireless microphone/headset system pressing his fingers together like Montgomery Burns. I’m not quite sure what other kind of performing arts center it could be? And how the magical roof tiles had a special coating them kept them clean called “glaze.”  He sugar coated every aspect, de-emphasizing the relationship melt-down between architect Jørn Utzon and the government leading to the architect’s resignation/firing. The city hired other architects to take over the interior and the purple carpets and drop ceiling attest to this. Utzon has never returned to see the finished product, dying this year. The Opera house is now working with Utzon’s son to “renovate” much of the interior to be more inline with Utzon’s original vision. Maybe they could have done it right the first time?

After the Opera house we had lunch in a Circular Quay-side cafe and continued on through the tourist overrun “Rocks.” Although converted from great historic buildings, the rocks were the cheesy tourist shops we are all used to with similar sites like Pier 39 or Quincy Market.

Sydney seems to have done a great job keeping and re-purposing a lot of it’s historic buildings like the Rocks, the Strand mall, downtown squares, etc.

We ended the day at the Paddington market, an open-air craft market, and shopping on Oxford Street until a monsoon rolled and a turned our overcast day into a rainy evening.

We woke up this morning (Sunday) to clear skies and sun. So what else to do? Goto the Beach! We followed the droves to Bondi Beach, one of Sydneys largest and most famous and it delivered. Great weather, clear days, pretty people. It seems Sydney isn’t too far from LA in it’s stereotypical obsession with fitness, being tan, and looking good. Now I’m all for staying healthy and active, but don’t want to make a career or obsession out of it.  Although maybe that’s just the product of living in a city in this kind of climate.

After not really sleeping for 27 hours, we decided to do what any normal person would do on Chirstmas Day, goto the beach. We took the ferry from Circular Quay, past the Opera house and onto Manly beach. The sky cleared up and the weather was amazing. It was about 75 and sunny and we looked out onto blue/green water. It seems most other Syndey-ans to the same on Christmas day as the beach was filled with Santa hatted families and residents.

Aaron and I are both getting over colds, so we laid low that evening after finding one of the few Vietnamese restaurants open for Dinner.

The next day we walked around the neighborhood and headed to Andrew Boy Charlton Public pool, a great public pool area overhanging onto the Bay. I finally started to relax and not feel pressured like I had to do, do, do. I just sat and enjoyed my book and the people watching.
Another laid back evening. Aaron and I are both starting to feel better and adjust to the jet lag.

Merry Christmas from Sydney, originally uploaded by bmiller1710.

Aaron and I somewhere over the Pacific Ocean on Christmas day (Sydney time.). After spending 2 hours laying over in a very empty and sad Tahitti airport, we boarded the same plane to continue another 8 hour trip that took us across the International Dateline. I put up some holiday decorations to get us in the holiday spirit. After 28 hours of travel, We arrived safe and are looking forward to the next 6 days in Sydney.

P.S. That’s a sleeping mask on Aaron’s head not an elf’s hat